Unique island with French street names, beautiful beaches and English country lanes 60 mins from Liverpool

There is an island less than an hour away from Liverpool that has French street names, German relics, winding English country lanes, its own currency and 29 beaches. You may never have  considered travelling here before, but you most certainly should.

The capital, Saint-Pierre Port, is lapped by blue waters and the pastel buildings that stagger up the rocky hills of the bay are reminiscent of a Mediterranean harbour. Its thirty miles of coast line offer everything from sunbathing and watersports to dramatic wave-beaten cliff walks and picturesque dining spots.

But there is much more to this 24 square mile island than just the coast. Ask any of the proud residents how they would describe their unique home and the first thing they say is 'it's safe' - as in front doors unlocked, car keys left in the ignition safe - and the second is 'beautiful'. Both are true.

It’s dripping with history too. Some of it is dark. The German occupation during WWII has had a lasting impact. But it’s also the place where French exile and author Victor Hugo wrote his most popular novel, Les Misérables, and the roofs of the houses have strange granite shelves to allow witches to rest.

Guernsey, one of the Channel Islands, just 46.5 miles off the coast of France, may be small, but it packs a punch. Its national airline, Aurigny, now flies direct from Liverpool John Lennon Airport and it is so easy to get to. I hopped on a spring flight to discover more about the island I knew so little about. It was a decision I’ll happily make again.

Flights to Guernsey from Liverpool are priced from £119 return and operate three times a week, on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. My flight took less than an hour and security at Liverpool Airport took less than ten minutes - that’s despite my schoolboy error of forgetting to pack 100ml liquids in a clear plastic bag and getting stopped.

About Guernsey

I didn’t know what to expect from Guernsey, but flying over the island en route to the airport and driving through its country lanes on the way to the hotel put me in mind of parts of the Lake District and the Cheshire countryside. 

However, there is a distinctly Gallic flavour to the English speaking island too. Many streets have French names like ‘Ruettes Brayes’ and ‘Rouge Rue’, with even the capital having both a Franco and Anglo name: Saint-Pierre Port and St Peter Port. Guernsey may have been a British crown dependency for nearly 800 years, but it has a long history with nearby Normandy.

There are over 20 beaches on the island, catering for surfers, sunbathers, rockpoolers and more, and everyone has their particular favourite. As I was driven along the coast, my taxi driver (there are no trains on Guernsey, it’s bus, cab or walk) explained that the locals rotate around the island, depending on the direction of the wind and the weather, to make sure they are at the best beach for that day. 

The most popular beaches tend to be in flatter coves on the west and north coast like Cobo, Port Soif and Pembroke. But I’m told some of the best are in the rugged south and south east.

Five must-do things on Guernsey

Aside from exploring the beaches, excellent restaurants and pubs, there are a few must do things I heartily recommend to help give you a real feel of the island.

Climb the Victoria Tower

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert paid a surprise visit to the island in August 1846 - the first visit to Guernsey by a reigning monarch - and the tower was built to commemorate their trip. Located in Saint Peter Port/Saint-Pierre Port, a climb to the top offers amazing views out over the harbour and surrounding areas. But it’s the way you access the tower that speaks volumes about the trusting nature of Guernsey. Visitors have to collect a large iron key to the tower from the Guernsey Museum & Art Gallery just down the road and then take themselves on the short journey to unlock the door. Visitors have 30 minutes to return the key, so the next person can use it.

Explore Castle Cornet

Castle Cornet has guarded Saint Peter Port for 800 years, although it did once turn its guns on Guernsey itself when the islanders backed the Parliamentarians during the English Civil War and the Royalist supporting leaders had to hole up in the fort. It is now home to museums, gardens, the Noonday Gun (which is fired each day) and offers panoramic views of the harbour.. In the summer, the castle and grounds open up every Friday evening for BBQ and music nights, with different performers in each section.

Visit the German Underground Hospital

Built by the German occupying forces in WWII, the hospital and ammunitions store is a mind-boggling labyrinth of tunnels and rooms that stretches for 6,950 square metres beneath fields and homes and casts a light on a difficult period of history for the island. German forces landed on 30 June 1940 and set about fortifying the island. You can still see concrete gun turrets and bunkers dotted all over Guernsey. A visit to the hospital really brings into focus the sheer magnitude and horrors of the war. Guernsey’s liberation was announced by Winston Churchill on 8 May 1945 and the dark hallways have since been used for films, musical performances and even halloween parties.

Tour the cliff paths

There is a 39 mile Coastal Path that circles the entire island and it is never more than ¼ mile away from the bus route, so you can start and end wherever you want. It is the perfect way to take in the stunning vistas, look across to neighbouring islands and explore the more secluded beaches of Guernsey. There are a plenty of easy to intermediate circular walks too, taking in Clarence Battery, Bluebell Woods, the Fairy Ring, Fermain Bay, Jerbourg Point and much more. If you fancy doing the whole thing, you can plot a ten mile route per day and stop at a different place each night.

Walk through Candie Gardens to harbour

My first excursion on Guernsey took me through Candie Gardens and down through the narrow streets of old town to the harbour - it gave me a real taster of what St Peter Port has to offer. Located at the top of a hill, Candie Gardens offers spectacular views across the harbour and out to sister islands Herm, Sark and Jethou. Along with the flower garden, the park houses a band stand where The Beatles performed, a statue of Victor Hugo and the Guernsey Museum & Art Gallery.

Accommodation in Guernsey

I stayed at the luxurious St Pierre Park Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort a little way from the coast. And I can’t speak highly enough of the staff who made my stay particularly welcoming. My room, a deluxe bedroom with lake views, was luxurious and comfortable, with French doors opening out onto a veranda.

St Pierre Park Hotel is renowned island sanctuary just one mile from St Peter Port that offers bespoke spa treatments, two restaurants (I recommend the nori cured salmon and beef fillet Wellington with bone marrow sauce) bar and exclusive nine-hole golf course and outdoor jacuzzi.

Their sister site, Fermain Valley Hotel, also offers luxury accommodation and a choice of restaurants, but also features a series of cabins in the woods, overlooking a secluded cove, where visitors can digital detox.