Times food critic calls popular Liverpool restaurant chain 'worst in the world'

A restaurant chain with multiple branches in Merseyside has been branded the 'worst restaurant in the world' by a prominent food critic. Giles Coren, a foodie for The Times, blasted German Doner Kebab in his column for the newspaper this week.

There are over 140 German Doner Kebab locations across the UK, Europe and the Middle East, with two in Merseyside. The branch on Liverpool's Whitechapel is particularly popular in the city, especially with those enjoying a night out. It has a Google rating of 4.2 stars from over 1,300 reviews. Those who have eaten there have said the food is 'awesome' and 'delicious' with one person even calling it the 'number one place for doner' in Liverpool.

However, Coren is not of this opinion, and in his column wrote: "I’ve found the worst restaurant in the world. And, surprise, surprise, it’s German." He added: "It’s called German Doner Kebab. You’ve probably heard of it. They’re everywhere. There are hundreds of them. They’re a thing. A phenomenon. And I’d been thinking that at some point I ought to go and try one. I like doner kebabs. I even review them from time to time. I don’t look down on them the way I look down on, say, tasting menus or French food."

Coren then speaks of a night-time visit to a German Doner Kebab close to his office in London, and took particular issue with the type of meat on offer. He said: "The choice on screen is chicken or beef. Beef! Who puts beef in a doner? It’s a lamb dish. Specifically lamb breast, with all that lovely fat. Not 'lean beef'. The hell is the point in that?" German doner kebab uses chicken, beef or veal traditionally, rather than lamb, after it was popularised in the 1960s out of convenience.

Coren added: "I fully respect the shaved elephant’s leg in a slipper, covered in salad and strafed with hot sauce, lemon and garlic. And if that’s making you think you’ll nip out and get one right now, don’t. Not from German Doner Kebab, anyway."

German Doner Kebab was first started as a single store in Berlin in 1989 and over the years has opened hundreds of branches worldwide. In 2019 the brand announced it would open six new eateries around Liverpool.

The brand is owned by Athif and Asim Sarwar, sons of former Glasgow MP Mohammed Sarwar and brothers of Scottish Labour leader Anas Sarwar.